By Chris Dumler '09
Reviewer

To commemorate the end of World War I, the Duvel Moortgat Brewery—founded in 1871 and located in Breendonk, Belgium—renamed their flagship beer “Victory Ale.” As legend has it, a friend of Jan-Leonard Moortgat, the brewery’s founder, remarked that the brew was “nen echten duvel”—a real devil—a comment likely referring to the ale’s relatively high alcohol content, yet deceptively smooth taste. And thus was Duvel christened.

Duvel is perhaps the quintessential Belgian Strong Pale Ale, a style noted for its pale to golden color, blustery head, delicate and well-balanced flavors, and often ridiculously high alcohol content (relative to most styles). A proper Belgian Ale is live—that is, a small quantity of yeast should be present in the bottle, allowing the fermentation process to continue after bottling—and thus presents the beer enthusiast the opportunity for cellaring, allowing the flavors and aromas to deepen in complexity. Duvel itself is brewed year-round from Scottish yeast, Czechoslovakian hops, French barley, and local Flemish water – a true pan-European experience – in an intricate process involving four temperature changes, three fermentations, and two months of maturation before leaving the brewery.

A beer of this style can be enjoyed in any tulip glass, wide-mouthed snifter, or even a normal red wine glass. This style of glassware is necessary to evolve and concentrate the aromas and head, which contribute significantly to the overall tasting experience. In addition to proper, clean glassware, I try to review beer without food (at least, initially), with a cleansed palette (water or water crackers are helpful here), and in a smoke-free environment. And, of course, I try to avoid RUI (reviewing under the influence), though this one can be tough to manage sometimes.

Ideally, Duvel should be served between 40 and 50 degrees. After a perfect pour. the beer should have a thick, rocky, billowy white head (the consistency is due to the chain proteins released by the yeast as the beer ages).

The appearance of this beer is absolutely gorgeous. As mentioned before, the head is fluffy and clean, and the retention out of this world. The beer itself is a beautiful yellow-straw gold, and the lacing around the rim of the glass is thick and full. The carbonation is incredibly lively—a calligraphic “D” etched in the base of the official Duvel tulip glass provides a nucleation site for the carbon dioxide bubbles, forming the faintest hint of the outline of the letter in the head as the bubbles rise. This is how God intended beer to look. Appearance: 5/5.

The nose is airy and light. Citrus notes dominate, particularly orange and lemon, and the tartness and sourness of the unique brand of yeast used are also prevalent. The floral crispness of the hops and the subtle sweetness of the grain are also detectable. The slightest hint of alcohol is also present in the harmony. Aroma: 4.5/5.

The taste is indescribable, but for the sake of the review, I’ll try. It’s balanced and smooth, with all the smells present in the aroma coming through. A spicy note—perhaps cloves—not present in the nose is also detectable here. Nothing overpowers anything else here, and everything makes its own important contribution, which is not something most beers can claim. As the beer warms, the sourness of the yeast and sweetness of the malt become more prominent. Outstanding! Taste: 5/5.

Mouthfeel is very smooth, despite the carbonation, which isn’t nearly as formidable in one’s mouth as it appears in the glass. It’s light, crisp and airy, and the finish is outstanding. Mouthfeel: 4.5/5.

Drinkability is superb. The carbonation goes strong to the end, and one’s empty beer glass remains laced three inches up the side as a reminder of the experience. (I’m writing this as I finish off the last few sips of the beer, and I believe I could easily finish a four pack of these. The alcohol has definitely crept up on me by this point, but you don’t feel it until it’s upon you—a devil of a beer, indeed.) Drinkability: 4.5/5.

In conclusion, Duvel sets a very high bar for other beers of its style, and I would recommend it to anyone interested in gaining exposure to Belgian beer. It pairs very well with heavier and gamier meats and stronger cheeses (think Roquefort and Stilton, unless you’re allergic to penicillin), and is light and crisp enough for the warmer months, but strong and warming enough for those cold winter nights. A 330 mL bottle of Duvel has a mere 198 calories, but is a hefty 8.5 percent alcohol by volume. A four pack or .75 L bottle can be purchased at any of the local beer/wine stores, as well as Whole Foods and Harris Teeter, for between $12 and $14 for the former and $6 and $8 for the latter. A little pricey, to be sure, but it’s worth it for this world-class brew.